Katsuya continually stepping it up 

Fri, Aug 25th 2023, 09:05 AM

Katsuya at SLS Baha Mar is one of those restaurants that doesn't shy away from bringing new things to the table, and mixing things up to ensure maximum flavor and pleasure. It's one of those restaurants where I gravitate to the tried and true, but I am always willing to leave myself open to suggestion.

On my most recent visit, I opted for dynamite lobster, and with spiny lobster season open, the lobster was as fresh as they come. It's a dish in which sweet spiny lobster meat meets shiitake mushroom, dynamite sauce, a little soy-sake and caramelized before being topped with crunchy garlic. This is one of those showstopping dishes visually, first and a total flavor bomb that is actually quite addicting. If you've had it once, you will be hard-pressed to not have it again and again, which turned out to be the case for me; I just had to have it.

My dining partner and I combined the lobster dish with another stunning entrée, the Katsuya's cowboy steak - an American Wagyu ribeye - which was served perfectly medium rare accompanied by pickled shallots and pickled mushrooms to counter the richness of the steak, and a miso butter which all set the stage for the perfect playground of flavors.

We concluded the meal, at the recommendation of our server Chase with Gen (Fireball) - a chocolate sphere, caramel chocolate mousse, coffee ice cream, coffee mousse, crumble, cocoa nibs, and Japanese Whiskey - which is not a dessert I would gravitate to, but he promised I would not be disappointed.

Suggestion accepted, and boy did this dessert not disappoint. This was one of those desserts where you have to ensure your camera is out and you're recording.

A simple chocolate dome is placed before you, but then the excitement begins as the server heats up the whiskey, tableside, pours it over the dome which is then flamed and if done right, is an absolute beauty to behold.

Digging in wasn't a hardship at all. I give kudos to Chase for the recommendation, and actually believe this is one of the most successful desserts on Katsuya's menu since it opened its doors.

To be honest, desserts for me was that one area where Katsuya did not work for me in the past, but the Fireball has fired things up. The yuzu cheesecake with raspberry sauce which is jauntily topped with a sesame tuile is another favorite.

But before getting to dessert and entrees, I had to partake in a few of my tried and trusted favorites, and had set the evening with creamy rock shrimp - two ways - a serving in a bowl, and roll form atop a California roll, because you can never have too much creamy rock shrimp.

And those short rib bao buns that are still relatively new to the menu is one of those items that you will order every time you visit – tender braised short ribs, bamboo aioli and pickled onion served in a fluffy, pillowy bun.

Chase also suggested the salmon tataki, a quick-seared salmon sliced sashimi-style with a yuzu miso. It's seared for extra color on the outside, and raw inside. The beautiful presentation is everything, and the flavor is outstanding. I could not believe I had never ordered this before. This is one of those dishes that I'm tucking away to have again.

An order (two skewers each) of beef and chicken kushiyaki with yuzu kosho (a Japanese chilli paste with floral notes), yakitori sauce and chives, are must dos. They are simplicity at their best, tender, flavorful.

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