Sweet, sweet Cat Island

Fri, Jun 23rd 2023, 11:05 AM

Cat Island sweet aye! This is a saying I've heard for as long as I can remember, so given the opportunity by the Bahama Out Island Promotion Board to check out how this saying came to be, I packed my "Georgie bundle" to continue on the Family Island jaunt that I started last year. The mission this time took me to an island that is proud that it is untainted by tourism. My delightful task — unearth and discover its delights.

After a quick 30-minute airplane ride from New Providence, I was taxiing into New Bight Airport, and like a thoroughbred, chomping at the bit in eagerness of exploration. I could not wait to be unleashed to explore every nook and cranny of the fishhook-shaped island that is only 48 miles long and four miles across at its widest part.

Uppermost in my plans was taking in Mount Alvernia (Como Hill) - the place we've all learned about as the highest elevation in the country at 206 feet above sea level. And the hill that served as the hermitage of Father Jerome Hawes, who settled on the island in 1939, and built the miniature monastery and hand-carved steps out of solid rock.

Also on the bucket list for this island is a visit to the fish fry in New Bight and taking in the pink-sand beach at Greenwood Beach Resort. (Because more than just Harbour Island has pink sand beaches.) Then, of course, there are the historical avenues to be explored - cotton plantation ruins that are scattered around the island, the remains of slave huts dating back to the 1700s and Arawak Indian caves to be explored. With miles of rolling hills and nature trails, Cat Island is said to be a Bahamian island to be discovered in its native setting. Not to be forgotten are the diving adventures, snorkeling and fishing.

And I was ready and prepared to do it all!

Then, Mother Nature reared her "ugly head" and unleashed a freak storm that seemed to blanket the entire country, so my first stop was to check into Rollezz Villas Beach Resort, which is located on a secluded islet in Old Bight, and on one of the longest uninterrupted beaches in the country, and whose white, soft sand and wide expanse, places it as one of the best beaches in the world.

I was checked into a multi-bed, multi-bath villa with a verandah porch from which I was able to lounge and take in the magnificent beach and garden views (I didn't have to choose).

Proprietors Yvonne and Carl Rolle have framed notes dotting the villa, but the one that perfectly encapsulated what Rollezz was for me, read: "If you come cheerily, here shall be fun for you. If you come wearily, here shall be rest for you. If you come sorrowing, love will be shown to you. At our beach home, dear friend, peace will abide for you, and the door will swing wide."

So, if I decided to let Mother Nature dampen my spirits and do nothing at all, I had no problem doing just that at Rollezz; their cottages are literally homes away from your home, whether you book a one-bedroom studio or a multi-room cottage.

Despite the inclement weather, I ventured to the Fish Fry, Cultural Village & Regatta Beach for cracked conch at Crystal's. As I headed back to the resort, the rain held up. Even though it was late in the evening, I beelined it to Mount Alvernia. I was warned that the rocks would be slippery, due to the rain, but not knowing if I would have that opportunity again, I "put on my big girl underpants" and carefully made my way up the stone staircase's steep, rocky incline, to the small, stone, medieval-style monastery sitting on the peak that Father Jerome built as a retreat to get away from the world. (This is not wheelchair accessible.) I took in the priest's detailed work and hand-carved stone reliefs of the Stations of the Cross, and could sense the priest's religious devotion.

At the summit, I was met by stunning 360-degree sweeping views of the lush vistas of the island.

My lone disappointment was when I realized I did not have a pen to sign the book of visitors in the Chapel of The Holy Spirit. (When you visit, remember to take one with you.) And I didn't bother looking around to see if there was a pen anywhere because it was nearing dusk, and a little dark in there, and I didn't know if creepy crawlies were around - and if they were, I wanted to get in and out quickly.

As I prepared to descend Mount Alvernia, the shock hit when I looked down. The stairs seemed to have disappeared. But they were still there, and I even more carefully made my way down than I had going up. At the base, I looked up once again to take in Mount Alvernia in all its glory. I was so happy I got the opportunity to do it.

I visited Griffin Bat Cave, which is known for being a hideout and providing shelter from hurricanes for enslaved people who lived in the area. It is a simple cave ... more like a room, with only one entrance and one central cavern. It is home to thousands of bats, according to what I hear — I did not darken the threshold.

Apparently, you can hear, feel and see the bats when they arise at sunset.

The weather did not allow for many more activities, including traveling south, due to road flooding.

I must say that I found great dining experiences on Cat Island, from the most tender cracked lobster I've ever had at Fernandez Bay Village Resort to a delicious three-course meal at Shannas Cove Resort, a boutique resort whose meals feature fresh ingredients from Cat Island mixed with international products and cooking techniques. With one sitting for dinner, and having arrived an hour early, I made my way down to the beautiful secluded beach, with hints of that famous pink sand, to while away the time with no one to be seen as far as my eye could see.

Getting to Shannas Cove was an adventure in itself. Once off the main road, the turn-off road leading to Shannas Cove isn't for the faint of heart, but trust me, soldier on, because at the end of that "harrowing" drive is a perfect hideaway - whether you're seeking quiet time or the vacation of a lifetime.

On the drive there, I made a pit stop along the way to Kizzy's Waterfront Café & Bar for what I was told would be the best conch salad I will ever have ... but the weather did not allow her to pull conchs out of the churning water where she stores them. I promised Kizzy that on my return to Cat Island, I would be back.

On the return, which was in the dark, the crabs were out and walking, and the crab catchers right there with them.

Because I wasn't able to travel south, for the most part, I spent my time at Rollezz Villas Beach Resort, which was not a hardship at all.

While I did not get to take in all the sights and treasures to be discovered on the quiet and unassuming Cat Island, I found it's a delightful island to visit, and totally unlike the other island that I visited last year.

When I started my Family Islands adventures in 2022, I was a neophyte to my own country. But I have now added Cat Island, the birthplace of rake 'n' scrape, The Bahamas' indigenous music, to the Family Islands that I have visited.

The Cat Island experience goes along with having explored the onshore charms of the boating capital of The Abacos, engaged in the Out Island adventure of a lifetime on Bimini, and the adventures that awaited across Eleuthera and Harbour Island; and the absolute treasure that were The Exumas - so, I'm approaching veteran status, but I'm not all the way there yet.

Par for the course after an amazing Out Island experience, my question is - where to next?

There's still Acklins, Andros, The Berry Islands, Crooked Island, San Salvador, Long Island, Rum Cay, Mayaguana, Ragged Island, and Inagua ... so, let's see where this summer takes me.

The Bahama Out Islands Promotion Board provides the perfect vehicles to explore The Bahamas with their Bahamas residents two fly/cruise free from Nassau promotion - one free airline/Bahamas Ferries ticket from Nassau for pre-booked two-night hotel stays or two free airline/Bahamas Ferries tickets from Nassau for pre-booked four-night or longer hotel stays, plus individual hotel offer.

I was, but am no longer, one of the many Bahamians who have been missing out on the natural wonders of our country. The Bahama Out Islands Promotion Board's Two Fly Free initiative seeks to rectify this, allowing residents the opportunity to get out and experience the country at a reduced cost and introducing them to the fact that from The Abacos to Inagua, there's a collection of unspoiled islands that cater to true connoisseurs of island life.

With the Bahama Out Islands Promotion Board's domestic tourism program - Two Fly Free from Nassau, which makes domestic tourism incredibly attractive and doable — The Bahamas is my oyster! And I am definitely finding the pearls, which are the memories of the amazing experiences I'm having.

There are three ways to redeem the fly free offer - directly with participating hotels, via Majestic Holidays, and at Bahamago.com.

WHERE I STAYED

Rollezz Villas Beach Resort

Accommodations: Single and multi-bedroom and bathroom villas, with living space, sofa bed, dinette, kitchenette and splashed with vibrant colors, overlooking crystal clear turquoise waters of the Caribbean Sea and views of breathtaking sunrises and sunsets on a six-mile stretch of breathtaking beautiful beach.


Dining: Seaside café offers Bahamian and American cuisine.

Click here to read more at The Nassau Guardian

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