Rediscover Katsuya

Fri, Apr 21st 2023, 08:48 AM

It's been a few days and trust me, I'm still swooning with delightful memories of a recent dining experience at Katsuya at SLS Baha Mar.

After more than two years, it was indeed a treat to return to Katsuya, and to have left, not just pleasantly surprised - but amazed!

A person who on occasion likes to leave herself in the hands of the experts, I did just that with Katsuya's chefs.

With a number of new additions and tweaks to the menu to discover, sous chef Trent Smith suggested starting my adventure with the short rib bao buns, one of two buns on the menu, the other bao bun offering features miso-marinated black cod, Boston lettuce and yuzu aioli. The short rib bao bun proved to be an excellent suggestion and showcased tender braised short ribs, bamboo aioli and pickled onion served in the fluffiest, most pillowy bun I think I've ever had. And the filling to bun ratio was spot on.

An order (two skewers each) of beef and chicken kushiyaki with yuzu kosho (a Japanese chilli paste with floral notes), yakitori sauce and chives, left me stunned! (And it takes a lot to leave me stunned.) They were simplicity at their best, tender, yet chockful of flavor.

On Restaurant Manager Shavonne Forbes and head sushi chef Slorenio's recommendations, the sushi rolls I went with included the Miami Beach - unagi, cucumber, avocado, spicy salmon, yuzu aioli and eel sauce; Hollywood roll - shrimp tempura, spicy albacore, spicy tuna, avocado, cucumber, bamboo aioli and crispy onion; and the Lobster - dynamite spicy lobster on a California roll.

L'ici strawberry "Akari" - strawberry jelly, meringue, strawberry poached, lotus streusel crumble base, fromage blanc spuma, red wine reduction syrup.

My absolute favorite of the three rolls hands down was the lobster roll. Let's face it, you simply cannot go wrong with perfectly cooked lobster. I'm a purist at heart when it comes to sushi, so I don't normally do anything with a tempura batter, but the Hollywood roll worked. It had a little of everything going on - a little crunch, silky yet spicy, sweet and refreshing flavors all rolled into one. And the Miami Beach packed a flavor punch.

Short rib bao buns - tender braised short ribs with bamboo aioli and pickled onion served in a fluffy, pillowy bun.

Now, there's nothing more showstopping and attention-grabbing than a whole lobster dish making its way to your table and I definitely took note of the heads on a swivel as the lobster dynamite made its way through the dining room and to my table. But the proof was in the pudding when it came down to taste.

This dish for which the Katsuya team combined sweet spiny lobster meat with shiitake mushroom, dynamite sauce, a little soy-sake and caramelized before topping with crunchy garlic, is hands down a showstopper visually as well as in flavor.

This dish is phenomenal!

The spiny lobster season is closed, so you can't get the whole lobster presentation right now, but Katsuya's chefs have tweaked the offering, which means you can still have this amazing taste experience with a lobster tail.

Japanese octopus carpaccio with a flavorful lemon herb relish and yuzu kosho, and a bite of their lobster tacos with butter garlic, tofu aioli and jalapeño salsa, rounded out the evening.

Yuzu cheesecake with raspberry sauce, Graham crumbs, and sesame tuile.

One area where Katsuya did not work well for me in the past was dessert, but with an overhaul to their sweet endings offerings, means dessert should not be missed.

One of my favorite staffers, Chase, recommended his preferences - the yuzu cheesecake with raspberry sauce, Graham crumbs, and topped with sesame tuile; or the chocolate lava cake - matcha tea ice cream, tuile, caramelized popcorn. My dining companion and I went with one of each. The yuzu cheesecake was creamy and rich with a delightful tangy zippiness. The chocolate lava cake lived up to my expectations - dark and decadent with the perfect fudgy center, not too melty and that extra surprise that I've never had in a lava cake before - caramel.

A presentation of lobster roll, center, (dynamite spicy lobster on a California roll); alongside the Miami Beach, left, (unagi, cucumber, avocado, spicy salmon, yuzu aioli and eel sauce); and the Hollywood roll (right) - shrimp tempura, spicy albacore, spicy tuna, avocado, cucumber, bamboo aioli and crispy onion.

Suffice it to say, Katsuya was a delightful experience. I'm already wondering when I will be making a return visit.

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